Mountain of Steel

City of Culture–it sounds so mysterious and futuristic. And as designed by famed architect Peter Eisenman, it is: a 6-building, 173-acre complex that encompasses the artistic, literary, and historical heritage of Spain, all set on a mountaintop in gorgeous Santiago de Compostela. But it’s also about the past, about Galician history. Eisenman used a map of the medieval city center of Santiago, along with the curvature of the intended site itself, as the inspiration for the lines and curves of his monumental design. It is a contemporary masterpiece rooted in the meanderings of old streets, a radical design implemented by old-school Spanish masons (and some specially imported Polish masters). I shake my head in admiration both for Eisenman, a hero of mine, and for the artisans who must grapple with his not-entirely-construction-friendly design. I can’t wait to see how this intricate piece of art is put together.

But first I have to wait for Galician carnival to end. And then–so I’m told–give the masons another couple of days to recover from their hangovers. And then wait for the rain to pass, because the amazingly cool stone roofs are treacherous when wet. And then beg someone, anyone, to let me in on the job. And, oh, does someone, anyone, speak English? Por favor?